Gucci Spring RTW Collection AT Milan Fashion Week 2017
The clothes remain manifestations of rich imagination and craft. Yet the awe has faded, parallel to the element of surprise. Alessandro Michele thus stands at a precipice, a position that speaks as much to fashion’s frenetic, unforgiving pace as to his spring output of Gucci. By any standard of designer tenure, even at this revolving-door moment, Michele’s Gucci is in its infancy. He took the helm less than two years ago, breaking through with a dissonant gentleness that, in a single round of men’s and women’s shows, re-charted the house’s creative course, sent sales instantly upward and had all of fashion talking. Yet as early as last season, one heard rumblings that Michele should move on lest he find himself stuck. Never mind the widely tolerated redundancy of streetwear, not just single-designer, season-to-season, but across the category, or the irony that the right person shows a mundane hoodie and social media goes agog. For better or worse, we are where we are, and, in a few short seasons, Michele’s embroidered tigers growling fiercely from oh-so-delicate eveningwear have become expected.
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